Climbing comp season is coming... (Merged: Climbing)

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Climbing comp season is coming... (Merged: Climbing)

Postby 22/7 » Fri Feb 08, 2008 6:53 am UTC

Ok, so I'm doing something of a circuit of climbing competitions in North/East/South Texas this Spring, and need to get back into shape for that. The first comp is in just under a month, and I've been running a little, biking a little, doing some core work, working the grippy thingy, that kind of thing. But I haven't been doing that much back or bicep work, which can both be pretty important. I know the best way to get better at climbing is to climb, and I'm doing that, but I'm really more talking about the training stuff you can do when you can't pull down on anything. So I guess what I'd be looking for from you guys is the following.
-What do you think is most important (core, back and biceps, hand strength, etc.)?
-How important is it to get the body fat down (under 8-10%, which wouldn't be that hard if I honestly would get back at the cardio)?
-What programs do you use/know of (fingerboard or otherwise)?
-Anything else you might want to add.

Oh, and I'll go ahead and follow the subforum-specific rules.
Age: 23
Height: 6'1"ish
Weight: 155-160
Objective: cut down on the extra weight or convert it to muscle, get back into climbing shape (maybe even lay the beat-down on a 5.11 one of these days?)
Totally not a hypothetical...

Steroid wrote:
bigglesworth wrote:If your economic reality is a choice, then why are you not as rich as Bill Gates?
Don't want to be.
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Re: Climbing comp season is coming...

Postby joeframbach » Sat Feb 09, 2008 12:44 am UTC

What do you climb right now? I'm stuck in a rut at V2-. I've been there for a year.
When I can't climb, I like to do pullups using the underside of my bed. I have it raised to about 3.5 feet from the ground. I'll hook one foot on the bed, pull up, and do a far reach into the air. Sometimes I bring both feet up and over for a core+shoulder workout. The real trick is to not 'barn door' under the bed.

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Re: Climbing comp season is coming...

Postby 22/7 » Sat Feb 09, 2008 10:13 am UTC

Is that a gym-V2- or an outdoor-V2-. And where, if outdoors?

Indoor, I usually top out around V3 or so and I can get on the 5.11s, but I'll usually only get through half of it or so before I'm just so pumped I can't pull down anymore. Outdoor is a whole different story. I went to a place near Crawford, Texas about 2 months ago for some bouldering that was just demoralizing as hell. *EVERYTHING* I sent there was V0, including a problem that starts off two tiny crimps, moves up into a couple of small pockets (a 2 finger and a mono) and throws, yes, throws off of the 2 finger and the mono up to a slopey top-out. Vfucking0! Anyway, usually outdoors I'm right in that V1-V2 range, where I can send a V1 by 3rd or 4th attempt and work a V2 as a single day project.

As an update (we're supposed to do that?), I climbed pretty hard today at the gym I work at, and I did some more core work.

P.S. @ Joe, how exactly are you doing these pullups such that you're barn dooring?
Totally not a hypothetical...

Steroid wrote:
bigglesworth wrote:If your economic reality is a choice, then why are you not as rich as Bill Gates?
Don't want to be.
I want to be!

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Re: Climbing comp season is coming...

Postby Simius » Sat Feb 09, 2008 12:18 pm UTC

I'll start by saying that I don't know much about training schedules. I've always held strictly to the "get better by climbing more" dogma, and it has got me to 5.13c so far, so I'm happy with that.

I've competed in the Dutch Climbing Comp for a few years. As you might have guessed, climbing is not that big a sport in a country where there is not a single mountain or rock face to climb, so competition is pretty low.

I think that the most important part for route climbing is endurance. Of course that's difficult to train when you can't pull down on anything.

As for the strength training, I don't really know what's the most important. I do know that it's better to do exercises that train as much muscle groups as possible, instead of focusing on specific groups. Training on a campus boardis probably one of the best methods to enhance strength, though I wouldn't recommand it for starting climbers, and again you can't do it at home. If you got a fingerboard, try moving up and down on it. If possible, you could mount a few (3 or 4) horizontal wooden slats above a doorpost and use that.

Body tension is especially important for bouldering, but training that is without doubt the most boring exercise ever.

Hand strength is also pretty important, and is certainly more easy to train. I have one of thesefor that, though I admit I almost never use it.

I don't know much about the body fat. I've never worried about it, to be honest.

Anything else I want to say: man, I really wish I could climb some real rock now. I need a holiday.

EDIT: anyone care to explain what "barn dooring" is? Wikipedia fails.

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Re: Climbing comp season is coming...

Postby 22/7 » Sat Feb 09, 2008 7:26 pm UTC

In order...

Yeah, I agree about the "climb more to get better", but that's not always an option right now, so I've been trying to do other things so that when I climb, I can get more out of it (supposedly).

I'm definitely a fan of endurance over bouldering, but, again, it's hard to train for without having much to pull down on.

I've been thinking of getting a finger board, but I don't know where I'd hang it...

For me, body fat is only an issue because I used to run in high school and sat very low on the body fat percentage ladder, somewhere around 4-5% (6'+ 124ish pounds for race weight). So for me, I notice when I've put on an extra few pounds in "excess".

Barn dooring is when you've only got weight on the same side and so you swing off in a "barn door" motion. Example. I'm doing a route and I'm weighting only/primarily my left foot, with my left hand securely placed. Then I let go with my right hand to move up with it. You know what happens here. So to avoid it, you switch your feet such that your right foot and left hand are weighted when you move up with your right hand. It also happens more often if you're way stretched out or way scrunched up.
Totally not a hypothetical...

Steroid wrote:
bigglesworth wrote:If your economic reality is a choice, then why are you not as rich as Bill Gates?
Don't want to be.
I want to be!

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Re: Climbing comp season is coming...

Postby joeframbach » Sat Feb 09, 2008 10:36 pm UTC

I don't get outdoors much anymore. The v2s I can finish are all indoors at the University of Pittsburgh Climbing Wall. It's a cool place to hang out.
Re: barn-dooring: I put my hands close together on the bed about 4 feet from the edge, and lean way left or way right by pushing by feet on the end of the bedpost. When I pull up, my weight seems to shift under the bed, and I have trouble trying to top out while not moving my hands. It's good core work.

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Re: Climbing comp season is coming...

Postby 22/7 » Mon Feb 11, 2008 7:18 pm UTC

So, random responses ftw.

Yeah, I hate trying to compare ratings, especially indoor ratings, across gyms let alone states. There's so much wiggle room. A couple of my friends joke that everything on our wall is a V0, but if we rated everything accurately it'd be so demoralizing that no one would show up.

Too bad your comp is so soon. Maybe next year. Our('?)s is in 2 weeks, and I'm crazy excited about setting for it.

So Joe, are you still in school or are you just near the University of Pittsburgh?

Anyway, a little update, I guess. Climbed hard 2 out of the last 3 days, and went for a roughly 20 minute run (I'd guess 2 1/2ish miles). I'd like to climb again today, but I'm not sure I'll have time.
Totally not a hypothetical...

Steroid wrote:
bigglesworth wrote:If your economic reality is a choice, then why are you not as rich as Bill Gates?
Don't want to be.
I want to be!

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Re: Climbing comp season is coming...

Postby joeframbach » Tue Feb 12, 2008 1:28 am UTC

I'm a senior at Pitt, in my last semester.
We have a comp on the 16th if you're interested in driving up here.

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Re: Climbing comp season is coming...

Postby 22/7 » Tue Feb 12, 2008 7:17 am UTC

joeframbach wrote:I'm a senior at Pitt, in my last semester.
We have a comp on the 16th if you're interested in driving up here.

Of Feb, yes? I'll be at Enchanted Rock that weekend, but thanks for the invite. Our's is on the 23rd. Out of curiosity, what is your rating system for beginner, intermediate, and advanced? We recently conformed to the Texas ... Collegiate Climbing... something? system which is <5.9 = beginner, 5.10-5.11 = intermediate, >5.12 = advanced, which seemed a bit on the high end to me for collegiate competitions, but whatever.

Got to climb today. Spent a fair amount of time on some 5.11-s, but hang-dogged all of them. Then, to make sure that it was all for naught, I ate at Steak n' Shake. Delicious, fantabulous Steak n' Shake.
Totally not a hypothetical...

Steroid wrote:
bigglesworth wrote:If your economic reality is a choice, then why are you not as rich as Bill Gates?
Don't want to be.
I want to be!

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Re: Climbing comp season is coming...

Postby Simius » Tue Feb 12, 2008 12:12 pm UTC

Wow, your competitions start really early. Here it usually kicks off somewhere around April. I'm not sure yet if I'll participate.

And yes, gradations can really be a pain. I've no idea how hard a V2 boulder would be. You weird americans :wink:

Edit: I'm going to try and do some strength training this afternoon in the climbing gym.

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Re: Climbing comp season is coming...

Postby joeframbach » Tue Feb 12, 2008 7:48 pm UTC

I have no idea how it's rated. I just climb.

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Re: Climbing comp season is coming...

Postby 22/7 » Tue Feb 12, 2008 10:47 pm UTC

Simius wrote:Wow, your competitions start really early. Here it usually kicks off somewhere around April. I'm not sure yet if I'll participate.
... I've no idea how hard a V2 boulder would be.
Yeah, we have about 3 in the area that are in February (one this Friday, one next Saturday, and one the following Saturday) and then 3 or so in April, all of them college-comps.

What scale are you on? For the France Scale, V2 is equivalent to a 5, which is odd, now that I think about it, because I regularly climb 5.10b-c (5.10/5.10) which converts to a 6a-6b on the French scale. On the German scale, a V2 is about V to VI and on the UK scale, you're looking at about a S/HS 4b to HVS 4c. I hope one of those makes sense to you.
joeframbach wrote:I have no idea how it's rated. I just climb.
Haha, of course. If you're not working/setting for the comp, you probably wouldn't pay too much attention to that sort of thing.
Totally not a hypothetical...

Steroid wrote:
bigglesworth wrote:If your economic reality is a choice, then why are you not as rich as Bill Gates?
Don't want to be.
I want to be!

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Re: Climbing comp season is coming...

Postby Simius » Wed Feb 13, 2008 2:43 pm UTC

22/7 wrote:What scale are you on? For the France Scale, V2 is equivalent to a 5, which is odd, now that I think about it, because I regularly climb 5.10b-c (5.10/5.10) which converts to a 6a-6b on the French scale. On the German scale, a V2 is about V to VI and on the UK scale, you're looking at about a S/HS 4b to HVS 4c. I hope one of those makes sense to you.

Yes, we use the French gradation scale here. However, there's a difference between the routeclimbing and the bouldering grades. You really can't compare them. It's not like when you easily climb 6c routes you can also easily climb 6C boulders. So the comparison table on wikipedia is pretty useless when you want to compare Vermin bouldering grades to the French 'Fontainebleu' bouldering grades.

Edit: I just found this: Conversion Table
which is rather more helpful. Apparantly a V2 is the same as a 6a.

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Re: Climbing comp season is coming...

Postby 22/7 » Mon Mar 03, 2008 10:16 pm UTC

Alright, time for a (long overdue) update. We had our comp last weekend (the 23rd), it went over well and I had been climbing strong, lots of 5.11-s and, gasp, some 5.11s, and, double gasp, a couple of 5.11+s... until Tuesday when I got sick. So I've been sick all week and went to a climbing competition in College Station anyway and climbed really strong somehow, onsighting a couple of hard 10s and an 11 (barely). Anyway, I'm feeling fairly good today, though I'm taking the day off, and I'm going to try and run a few times this week as well as climbing at least twice. I've got a month until the last two comps of the season (for me, anyway) and my goal is to score 4 11s (or 3 11s and a boulder problem) in the last one.

Saturday is the Manathon, may the best Man win! Sunday I'm off to Horseshoe for 5ish days of climbing.
Totally not a hypothetical...

Steroid wrote:
bigglesworth wrote:If your economic reality is a choice, then why are you not as rich as Bill Gates?
Don't want to be.
I want to be!

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Re: Climbing comp season is coming...

Postby Steve » Mon Mar 03, 2008 10:20 pm UTC

If you are still looking for some non-gym or real rock related climbing, I go buildering around my school campus whenever the weather is just too nice to go to the gym and I don't have enough time to go to rock. Brick buildings can be really nice for crimp practice, and nothing beats those with rock foundations - we have a music building that has about 25' of awesome granite and slate.
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Re: Climbing comp season is coming...

Postby 22/7 » Mon Mar 03, 2008 10:26 pm UTC

Sorry, but I live in Dallas, and nothing here is made of anything but brick, and not all that interesting brick, either. But we do have a really good gym.
Totally not a hypothetical...

Steroid wrote:
bigglesworth wrote:If your economic reality is a choice, then why are you not as rich as Bill Gates?
Don't want to be.
I want to be!

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Climbing

Postby Steve » Sun Mar 09, 2008 4:08 am UTC

So there seem to be a few of us that do the whole rock/sport climbing thing, it would be nice to have an area that isn't rockclimbing.net to talk about this sort of thing.

As for me, I currently boulder V2/3 and only top rope 5.10a/b, so it is getting ever more apparent that I need to go in with my top rope buddy more and get up to speed there.
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Re: Climbing

Postby Simius » Mon Mar 10, 2008 6:04 pm UTC

Climbing is awesome. I really need a holiday to some proper climbing area, though, haven't climbed any real rocks since September. And for the first time in years I'll have to miss Easter holidays at Fontainebleau because of these stupid midterms. :(

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Re: Climbing comp season is coming...

Postby recurve boy » Fri Mar 14, 2008 9:24 am UTC

I just came back from Castle Hill in NZ. Awesome climbing. We only had time to explore Spittle Hill. I have never seen so much sheep poo in my entire life.

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Re: Climbing comp season is coming...

Postby Steve » Fri Mar 14, 2008 10:56 pm UTC

Had a gorgeous day that turned to shit right as I was about to go climbing today, so off to the gym it was. 3 hours later I had beasted up another bouldering level, and set a really fun v2 and a schnasty v3 that has a 3' aerial dyno off a sideways lean to finish. Oh yea...and tore two flappers in my right hand. Oops.
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Re: Climbing comp season is coming...

Postby 22/7 » Sat Mar 15, 2008 4:45 pm UTC

So I've been sick the last two weeks and as a result have not been climbing that much. Just got back from Horseshoe which confirmed that I'd lost about a grade. Well shit. Anyway, in an attempt to get it back, I'm going to start with the pullups, crunches, pushups, running, finger board exercises, etc. Also, laps on 5.7s and such. Hopefully that'll make it all better before the last two comps of the season (beginning of April).

Side note: New gym opening on Monday here in the big D. Free climbing, food and beer all day Monday (apparently). Woohoo!
Totally not a hypothetical...

Steroid wrote:
bigglesworth wrote:If your economic reality is a choice, then why are you not as rich as Bill Gates?
Don't want to be.
I want to be!

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Re: Climbing comp season is coming...

Postby recurve boy » Tue Mar 18, 2008 5:13 am UTC

22/7 wrote:Anyway, in an attempt to get it back, I'm going to start with the pullups, crunches, pushups, running, finger board exercises, etc. Also, laps on 5.7s and such. Hopefully that'll make it all better before the last two comps of the season (beginning of April).


Shouldn't you also climb more.

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Re: Climbing comp season is coming...

Postby 22/7 » Tue Mar 18, 2008 7:02 am UTC

Haha, yeah, and I am. I just got back from Horseshoe Canyon, and I've been climbing like 5ish days/week. I've also been intentionally trying to climb harder stuff (hard 5.11s and 5.12s, though my progress on those is, well, comical at times).
Totally not a hypothetical...

Steroid wrote:
bigglesworth wrote:If your economic reality is a choice, then why are you not as rich as Bill Gates?
Don't want to be.
I want to be!

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Re: Climbing comp season is coming... (Merged: Climbing)

Postby Steve » Tue Mar 18, 2008 8:58 pm UTC

So a friend and I are starting to make chalkbags out of stuffed animals to sell, and want to hold a little mini-comp at our local gym for fun and to give a few of them away as prizes. The problem is because of the size of it, normal comp layout will not really work, specifically that putting people in ISO is totally against the spirit of the thing. Another problem will be that the people setting are almost guarenteed to want to compete as well.

Right now we are thinking of breaking it down into 2 groups, Vb-V3/4 and V3-V8 with 3 or maybe 4 problems per group. Any ideas on how we could realistically have some fun problems set without a gigantic advantage given to those who set it? Also, if enough people are interested we might want to 'go public' and do it as a fundraiser for some charity, in which case what moves would be big crowd pleasers and possibly get the general public into climbing? I am thinking rose moves, all points off dynos, maybe some horizontal tension holds?

All input is appreciated.


(On a side note, I currently have 5 open blisters on my hands from going set-crazy over the past few days and basically redo-ing half of our bouldering wall.)
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Re: Climbing comp season is coming... (Merged: Climbing)

Postby 22/7 » Tue Mar 18, 2008 9:31 pm UTC

To answer your question, no, you really can't do anything to keep the setters from having an advantage. My suggestion is to give the setters the option of setting/judging or climbing, but not both. I set in a yearly comp for my school and I just don't get to climb in it. It kind of sucks, but there are other comps put on by other schools, so I just go compete in those.
Totally not a hypothetical...

Steroid wrote:
bigglesworth wrote:If your economic reality is a choice, then why are you not as rich as Bill Gates?
Don't want to be.
I want to be!

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Re: Climbing comp season is coming... (Merged: Climbing)

Postby Steve » Wed Mar 19, 2008 1:11 am UTC

Well I think we are going to be climbing anyways, its a pretty small gym and the idea isn't really to be super-competative, more just to have a good time watching each other fling off the wall. A decent compromise I have come up with so far is to have my partner and I set the lower levels (I top out around a V3/V4 and her about V4+). We will still compete but clearly be out of contention for actually winning a prize. For the higher levels we can have 2 setters do 2 routes each, and then make the setup such that everyone at the top level has to climb 3 routes-2 high level and 1 low level. The two setters have to climb the ones they did NOT set if they want to try and win a prize.

On another issue, I have some serious blisterage going on right now and it is preventing me from climbing hard, so instead I went in to try and set some easy routes for the people starting to boulder, and goddamn is it hard to come up with some good inspiration at times. When you set, know any tricks to prevent a 'reachy' route for short people but without making the thing campusable?
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Re: Climbing comp season is coming... (Merged: Climbing)

Postby 22/7 » Wed Mar 19, 2008 4:16 am UTC

It really depends on what you're going for, what style you're setting in, etc. I generally like to get a concept for a route ahead of time (or at least before I start setting) and work from there. For instance, I climbed this route at a local gym tonight that incorporates a fairly horizontal move with a left-hand mantle, and it made me think about incorporating a similar move into a very balancy route. So I just think about either a specific set of moves that I want to use or a specific line that I want to run on the wall, and then I get the right kind of holds and go from there. I try to envision how the route I want to set will look, or rather how the person climbing it will look, and try to force those moves. That can cause some issues, since I'm 6'1", so I'll generally add some kind of intermediate holds, usually really shitty ones that you wouldn't want to rest on or make a move from but just enough to bump through on. As for the campus moves, I've got a buddy who used to be a gymnast who can campus on some pretty ridiculous stuff, so I just don't even worry about him climbing it. Think about it this way. You set a V1 for someone who tops out at V1+ or V2, not for the guy who's bouldering V5.
Totally not a hypothetical...

Steroid wrote:
bigglesworth wrote:If your economic reality is a choice, then why are you not as rich as Bill Gates?
Don't want to be.
I want to be!

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Re: Climbing comp season is coming... (Merged: Climbing)

Postby recurve boy » Thu Mar 20, 2008 1:01 am UTC

Steve wrote:On another issue, I have some serious blisterage going on right now and it is preventing me from climbing hard, so instead I went in to try and set some easy routes for the people starting to boulder, and goddamn is it hard to come up with some good inspiration at times. When you set, know any tricks to prevent a 'reachy' route for short people but without making the thing campusable?


I have never set routes before. I just climb them. But at my gym some of my fav routes have been these V1/V2 set up around a corner with a slight overhang. The holds are big not reachy, but you need to be careful with your footwork. If I'm being sloppy (say after a long day of climbing) it's easy to lose my footing.

So maybe put the emphasis on foot work?

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Re: Climbing comp season is coming... (Merged: Climbing)

Postby Steve » Thu Mar 20, 2008 1:46 am UTC

Thats what I typically try to do, and it was really satisfying watching a few gorilla men today try what is a pretty easy (I think so at least) v0 I set. Basically the top is a double bump from the left hand going clockwise, with the final jug a slight crossover. The only trick is you have a left foot WAY far out to the left that lets you get that extra 6" of reach versus what is an obvious left foot way below. They all said it was impossible without a big dyno, and because the last two are slopers that is way too tough for a v0. A 5'6" girl flashed it right after them, totally static moves.

The real problem though is that most of the wall is tattooed in other routes, and setting something that emphasizes footwork basically relies on leanbacks or toe/heelhooks, as putting in a creative foot usually means adding another hold etc.

Anyways, I was talking to some of the other members that came in today about needing some new 5.8/5.9 overhanging routes so that will probably be my next project. I will probably put a long mantle traverse in for flavor, any other overhanging favorites?
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Re: Climbing comp season is coming... (Merged: Climbing)

Postby 22/7 » Thu Mar 20, 2008 6:41 pm UTC

Steve wrote:The real problem though is that most of the wall is tattooed in other routes, and setting something that emphasizes footwork basically relies on leanbacks or toe/heelhooks, as putting in a creative foot usually means adding another hold etc.
Not necessarily. When people climb my routes they're usually pretty sure it's mine because it involves so much footwork. I have created (and regularly set) routes that literally require ~2 foot moves for each hand move. I'll outline what I'm thinking of as a good example in the spoiler.
Spoiler:
Hands set wide-ish, small feet on a slightly overhung wall. First move up with right hand. Pop right foot up to small foot hold in middle of body, left foot flagged way out. Second move up with left hand. Match feet, flag right foot way out. Third move with right hand. Match feet, flag left foot way out. Fourth move with left hand. Match feet and/or throw heel hook from previous handhold, etc.
So you can use crappy feet (one when you really want two) and put them in the middle of the route (or even way off to the side) to create difficulty that wouldn't normally be there. If you want to force them to stay off the hand holds, make it traverse while it climbs.
Totally not a hypothetical...

Steroid wrote:
bigglesworth wrote:If your economic reality is a choice, then why are you not as rich as Bill Gates?
Don't want to be.
I want to be!

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Re: Climbing comp season is coming... (Merged: Climbing)

Postby Simius » Thu Mar 20, 2008 10:29 pm UTC

Ooh, I love routesetting. Especially making boulders (bouldersetting? Doesn't sound right) nowadays since it's such much easier. My gym is around 70 feet high, so setting a route usually takes a whole day, for me at least.

We have a monthly boulder competition (and recently a route competition too) in my gym, but I haven't competed in years, preferring setting over participating most of time.


One thing I've learned is that it's possible to campus anything, if you're strong enough. It's fun to try to make something that forces some technique and footwork, but when you're bouldering with people who climb V13, you kinda give up on that. With easy routes in particular, it's almost impossible to prevent the tall people from skipping holds. Just don't worry about it too much.

22/7, do you have an 8a scorecard? Mine's here: Scorecard

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Re: Climbing comp season is coming... (Merged: Climbing)

Postby 22/7 » Thu Mar 20, 2008 11:41 pm UTC

Simius wrote:22/7, do you have an 8a scorecard? Mine's here: Scorecard

I don't, but I should check that out. We're actually on a different rating scale for routes (YDS), so it may not apply, but I'll check and see.
Totally not a hypothetical...

Steroid wrote:
bigglesworth wrote:If your economic reality is a choice, then why are you not as rich as Bill Gates?
Don't want to be.
I want to be!

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Re: Climbing comp season is coming... (Merged: Climbing)

Postby Steve » Sat Mar 22, 2008 1:09 am UTC

So the best workout I have ever had came today when I was setting an overhang route. It is only 95% complete though because I need to swap a hold out but at the end of setting for 2 hours I could barely climb up some jugs to get there, much less balance in a way to actually do the swap.
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Re: Climbing comp season is coming... (Merged: Climbing)

Postby Simius » Sat Mar 22, 2008 10:55 am UTC

22/7 wrote:
Simius wrote:22/7, do you have an 8a scorecard? Mine's here: Scorecard

I don't, but I should check that out. We're actually on a different rating scale for routes (YDS), so it may not apply, but I'll check and see.


Well, there is a special section for the US, though it still has french grading, as far as I know.

Steve wrote:So the best workout I have ever had came today when I was setting an overhang route. It is only 95% complete though because I need to swap a hold out but at the end of setting for 2 hours I could barely climb up some jugs to get there, much less balance in a way to actually do the swap.


Routesetting through a long roof is one of the most frustrating things I've ever done. It is only equalled by having to get your quickdraws back after leading through a roof.

@ \/ You get cash for that? Lucky bastard :wink:
Last edited by Simius on Sat Mar 22, 2008 8:03 pm UTC, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: Climbing comp season is coming... (Merged: Climbing)

Postby 22/7 » Sat Mar 22, 2008 7:06 pm UTC

Speaking of which, I'm off to do some setting now (I need the cash).
Totally not a hypothetical...

Steroid wrote:
bigglesworth wrote:If your economic reality is a choice, then why are you not as rich as Bill Gates?
Don't want to be.
I want to be!

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Re: Climbing comp season is coming... (Merged: Climbing)

Postby Steve » Sun Mar 23, 2008 12:15 am UTC

Simius wrote:
Routesetting through a long roof is one of the most frustrating things I've ever done. It is only equalled by having to get your quickdraws back after leading through a roof.

@ \/ You get cash for that? Lucky bastard :wink:

Agreed, I just do it to mix things up a bit...I might have to look into doing it for some sort of a perk when I move to DC though.

Edit: I went buildering today, so much fun as always.
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Re: Climbing comp season is coming... (Merged: Climbing)

Postby 22/7 » Wed Mar 26, 2008 7:43 pm UTC

Quick update. I've been doing some of the same stuff as before (some core work, occasional lifting, climbing a lot, running/biking some) and have seen a little bit of progress. I'm down about 5 pounds to the 150-155 range and have progressed slightly. I'm now regularly sending hard 10s and easy 11s, and I flashed my first V4 yesterday. Still need a little work on my overall fitness, but I think that if I increase the regularity of my cardio work I'll be in decent shape for the last round of comps (first two weekends in April).
Totally not a hypothetical...

Steroid wrote:
bigglesworth wrote:If your economic reality is a choice, then why are you not as rich as Bill Gates?
Don't want to be.
I want to be!

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Re: Climbing comp season is coming... (Merged: Climbing)

Postby Steve » Thu Mar 27, 2008 5:10 am UTC

So I gave blood today, then went climbing a few hours later. Fun times. I never actually got to the passout point, but I did get nice and pumped, break the needle clot a bit and feel really lightheaded.
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Re: Climbing comp season is coming... (Merged: Climbing)

Postby Simius » Mon Mar 31, 2008 2:56 pm UTC

Last saturday I participated in a small bouldering contest in one of my neighbourhood climbing gyms. I got the 3th place and won some liquid grip stuff and some hand crême. But damn, did my muscles ache the day after. I still feel them.

The boulders were really sweet though, especially the ones in the finals.

On a sidenote: I might be going to Melloblocco this year! Yay!

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Re: Climbing comp season is coming... (Merged: Climbing)

Postby 22/7 » Fri Apr 11, 2008 8:17 pm UTC

Ok, so I guess this is a bit of a wrap up. The climbing comp season is officially over for me (since I'm not climbing at the actual last comp tomorrow) and, all in all, things went well as far as my fitness is concerned. I got my cardio a little better, my climbing certainly improved and I lost a little bit of that excess weight.

-Weight down from about 160 to 153 (fairly steady).
-At the beginning of this thread I was regularly climbing hard 5.10s, I've since moved up to easy and mid-range 5.11s.
-My eating habits (though not specifically focused upon in this thread) have improved somewhat. I'm generally eating less each day (maybe 300ish calories less) than I had been at the creation of this thread.

I feel like this is a decent starting point, and am very, very excited about being done with school this Spring and starting work this Summer. I feel like the reintroduction of routine into my life (after a 5 year hiatus) will help with my overall health, as well as my climbing.
Totally not a hypothetical...

Steroid wrote:
bigglesworth wrote:If your economic reality is a choice, then why are you not as rich as Bill Gates?
Don't want to be.
I want to be!


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